DMZ, JSA (Joint Security Area) & Panmunjom

Entry into the DMZ (No cameras allowed!)

Two weeks ago, we FINALLY got to do the proper tour of the DMZ (demilitarized zone). This is the tour that is run by the American Miilitary and takes people right into the demilitarized zone between North Korea and South Korea. We arrived at the meeting poing before 7:00 one Saturday morning and we, togther with a large group of people, got bussed to the DMZ. We entered the South most border of the DMZ and we were made to change busses. They then ushered us into an auditorium where we were required to sign indemnity forms and a short slide show was presented . We had a whole lot of instructions barked at us - no pointing at the North Koreans, photos were only allowed in specific areas, walk in two straight lines etc. The slide show was interesting but the military man who presented it barked the presentation out in a gruff, staccato manner just like the way you see military commanders speak in the movies. We thought it was quite amusing.

We then headed to the JSA (joint security area) and this is where things got really interesting. The JSA is the area where the North Koreans and South Koreans actually stand face to face. A concrete slab is all that demarcates the border between the countries. We noticed that the security on the South Korean side was intense but that was because we were there. The North Koreans only stand guard in a similar fashion when they have visitors to the JSA. But we were told to make no mistake about how heavily monitored we were by the North Koreans. The photos show how the guards stand. Two were standing half obscured by the wall for maximum protection, they never moved. The sunglasses are to intimidate the North Koreans.

South Korea Guards Facing North Korea. (See the concrete slab between the buildings demarcating the "Military demarcation line" (Border)



Korean Gaurd in taekwondo Pose

We were ushered into the meeting room that is built right over the border and is used for meetings between the two countries. In the room the table is precisely over the border and we had the opportunity to stand on the North side of the room which is officially in North Korea. Inside the room there were 4 military men standing in a Taekwondo stance. They never moved, they wore their sunglasses and they had their fists clenched. We were told not to walk behind them or touch them. We exited the room and were able to take some photos of North Korea, two of their military men had come to stand outside the building. We were told not to wave or point at them but we could take photos.

S.Korean Gaurd facing North Korean building, only partially exposed.

We were then bussed to a look out point where we could see the North Korean village that is inside the DMZ. There's also a South Korean village inside the DMZ as there is lots of farming that goes on. The south Koreans that live in this village do not pay tax and the government pays for a portion of their childrens education. It is a very desirable village to live in. Women can marry into it but men cannot. There are certain laws for the people who are entitled to farm and live there. Both villages have huge flags on massive towers. The North Korean flag is much bigger and taller than the South Korean one (make no mistake about the egos involved is this weird political scenario). The military guy told us about the ridiculous number of people it takes to raise the flags (30, I think) and they have to take it down in rain because it gets so saturated and becomes so heavy that it is unmanageable.

They drove us passed the Bridge of No Return, where POWS were given a choice to walk into the country of their choice but once they decided there was no coming back. Our Korean guide told us James Bond was the last person to cross this bridge. Bridge of No Return

3rd Tunnel (Click to enlarge)

After this we left the DMZ we went for lunch. And then they took us to the 3rd infiltration tunnel. The North Koreans had managed to get within 50 or so kms from Seoul before they were discovered. Their excuse was that they were mining for coal (no coal exists in that rock), they even went as far as painting the rock black. The tunnel was interesting and the walk back was quite tiring as it was a steep uphill (pretty tough for a pregnant lady but good exercise).